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How To Clean Air Conditioner Drain Tube Volvo V50

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Old 07-eleven-2009, 01:54 PM

Location: Cushing OK

fourteen,545 posts, read 19,768,419 times

Reputation: 16903

I have one of those rolling air conditioning units with the window kit. It works fine for the room its in, but the problem is the drainage. It has a cup the water goes and once its full the ac shuts off until its emptied.

The problem is information technology is VERY humid here. Every xv minutes requires a bleed. According to the manufacturer, y'all can run information technology with the drain open up in humid weather. Which is what I was doing. Merely...

The drain is about an inch from the floor. Everything I've tried leakes out before it can be emptied. I put a hose on it and that helps, but existence and so low to the ground it needs the right gravity to bleed, and any container that holds enough to affair won't work.

Since its really not applied to roll information technology around, the place I keep it is where its staying. I'm thinking of a bleed hole at floor level to the outside. The h2o is starting to damage the floor. Is this applied? The wall is over a pes thick. I'm concerned about leakage from exterior in during rain. Can't afford a window unit (if one would fit, since its a very small window) and don't want it there twelvemonth round anyhow. But the house is unliveable without some cooling.

Any suggestions on how to pipe the hose upward to the window itself for drippage as that is very doeable just the h2o pressure never is high enough to push it that far.

Cheers for whatever suggestions.

Old 07-11-2009, 03:11 PM

tortoise

1,009 posts, read three,851,160 times

Reputation: 760

Quote:

Originally Posted by nightbird47 View Post

I put a hose on it and that helps, just being so low to the footing it needs the right gravity to bleed

1 option might be to elevate the unit slightly, maybe using flowerpots as risers, to adjust a wall feedthrough where the bushings could exist plugged in the libation months.

Old 07-11-2009, 03:17 PM

21,173 posts, read 63,152,104 times

Reputation: 41135

Bilge pump (cheap wal-mart sporting section), 12 volt adapter, hose. Add a float valve for automatic operation.

Old 07-xi-2009, 03:23 PM

Location: Cushing OK

14,545 posts, read 19,768,419 times

Reputation: 16903

Quote:

Originally Posted by tortoise View Post

One option might exist to drag the unit slightly, perhaps using flowerpots every bit risers, to suit a wall feedthrough where the bushings could be plugged in the cooler months.

Information technology would be possible to run it through the wall a fleck above the floorboard and even so have it drain, so thanks much. The unit of measurement itself is besides heavy to put on anything merely a very sturdy elevator.

I'm bold that the areas where the cablevision/line runs through tin can be water sealed with the bushings when not in use.

Old 07-11-2009, ten:05 PM

texdav

48,507 posts, read 91,417,153 times

Reputation: 18218

Quote:

Originally Posted by harry chickpea View Post

Bilge pump (cheap wal-mart sporting department), 12 volt adapter, hose. Add a bladder valve for automatic operation.

Y'all tin buy bigle pumpos with built in swtches at marine stores. Or you can get a fountain pump made to run.with a munaul bidge pump switch and skip the converter. They also are fabricated to run alot more than bilge pumps and I thnik would holdup ameliorate.

Old 07-12-2009, 12:18 AM

21,173 posts, read 63,152,104 times

Reputation: 41135

Quote:

Originally Posted by texdav View Post

You lot tin can buy bigle pumpos with built in swtches at marine stores. Or you can get a fountain pump made to run.with a munaul bidge pump switch and skip the converter. They also are made to run alot more than bilge pumps and I thnik would holdup better.

Yeah, probably a better solution for only a few bucks more. I was brainstorming. Haven't been in a marine store in over 30 years.

Old 07-xvi-2009, 11:47 PM

BigJon3475

29,740 posts, read 37,436,499 times

Reputation: 4723

The portable unit I accept runs the bleed through the condenser fan tube, the thing that connects to the window. It's elevated temperatures evaporates the wet and pushes information technology out of the firm. The all-time portables have 2 tubes for the condenser gyre. One intake and ane exhaust then they do not exhaust conditioned air outside of the conditioned space. When you accept a fan that pulls air from the dwelling house and pushes it to the outside information technology can go out the home in a slightly negative pressure as opposed to exterior pressures. That difference allows air to be pulled through the leaks in your habitation at a greater rate than non having the A/C unit. Excessive wind speeds exasperates the problem.

Old 07-17-2009, 04:22 PM

Location: Cushing OK

14,545 posts, read 19,768,419 times

Reputation: 16903

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigJon3475 View Post

The portable unit I accept runs the drain through the condenser fan tube, the thing that connects to the window. Information technology'southward elevated temperatures evaporates the wet and pushes it out of the house. The all-time portables have ii tubes for the condenser coil. One intake and 1 exhaust so they do not frazzle conditioned air exterior of the conditioned infinite. When yous have a fan that pulls air from the domicile and pushes it to the exterior information technology can go out the home in a slightly negative force per unit area every bit opposed to outside pressures. That difference allows air to exist pulled through the leaks in your home at a greater rate than not having the A/C unit. Excessive air current speeds exasperates the trouble.

This one has both. The problem with the drip is information technology has a drain for backlog moisture which can't be handled by the frazzle. Unfortunately it fills chop-chop and shuts down the cooling when its full. Its then low to the ground that draining it ends upwardly getting the floor all wet. I have a flexable plastic tube on it just it still has to bleed out to continuously drain as they suggest. Flooring has already been damaged and needs some sanding.

A hole through the wall as one poster suggested is what I plan. Haven't plant anyone who tin can exercise it withal but that should solve that problem.

Cool air from the portable doesn't reach past the room unless I blow information technology in that location and utilise a window fan blowing air out. Basically it doesn't cool more than the one room but thats okay. Just want information technology to be able to run without floods in that one.

Since the heat wave ended in a spectacular storm terminal couple days ago, I'm running it just on fan and it works rather well to bring in outside air. When information technology won't drip everywhere I tin can set information technology on "auto" and it cycles between cool dehydrate and fan to maintain a temperature which is my goal. Except for the drain problem, it works pretty well.

Old 07-18-2009, 09:50 AM

Barking Spider

Location: Knoxville

four,656 posts, read 23,655,551 times

Reputation: 5867

You tin can buy a condensate pump that is made for a/c units. Y'all can run the drain anywhere you want information technology to get.
I fix my de-humidifier on a cart, with the pump below it. I just ran the plastic bleed tube out and it runs 24/vii and I don;t accept to worry about the pan filling upwards.

Old 06-27-2020, 07:28 AM

nhow

viii posts, read 6,449 times

Reputation: 25

I have a similar trouble. Floor air conditioner sits on livingroom carpeting. The drain valve is and so low to the floor there's no mode to put a container nether it and water gushes out on the rug when y'all open the drain. I attached a rubber tube to the drain and ran it out the french doors but the water just stays in the tube. Considered a condensate pump but it looks like the AC needs to be slightly higher up the input valve of the pump and this isn't really an pick.

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